Tom Herr’s Original Flies Set a New Standard for Perfection

Spend a moment enjoying the amazing fly on the cover of the Spring issue of Fly Tyer magazine. That pattern is called the Delta Color. Have you ever seen anything like it?

Over the past 50 years, I’ve examined thousands of flies, but few reached this level of perfection. It is in a class all its own. It sets a standard far and above what I will ever accomplish at the vise. The Delta Color displays unparalleled technical tying expertise, and only an artist can master such use of color.

The Delta Color is one of Tom Herr’s flies.

“You’ve heard of Jose Wejebe?” Tom said when describing how he creates his astonishingly beautiful flies. “He had that popular television show The Spanish Fly. My cousins lived on Summerland Key, in Florida, near Jose. Jose’s daughter was getting married, and my cousins knew the family. They asked if I would create a tie to commemorate her wedding. I agreed, and I was invited to the event, which was fabulous. It was the first time I’d ever been to the Keys, and I saw some absolutely amazing sunsets. When I got home, I looked at the photographs I took of those sunsets, and they became the inspiration for the Delta Color.”

Now I can see the inspiration in Tom’s fly: the red feathers in the center represent the setting sun, and the married sprigs of dyed turkey tail feathers look like shafts of light reaching toward the sky. The bottom of the fly is a mirror image of the top, just like a setting sun reflecting off calm water. But the Delta Color wasn’t Tom’s wedding gift.

“No, that’s not it. I gave them a different tie; I no longer have it. I did send you a photograph of a pattern called Jose’s Tie. I created that for a fundraiser for the Jose Wejebe Memorial Foundation, which is a great non-profit organization. I need some sort of inspiration to create one of these ties. Inspiration is the key.”

I thought this was going to be just another interview with another fly tyer: tell me about where you fish, how you learned to tie flies, and your patterns. Immediately, however, Tom talked about the role inspiration plays when designing a new fly, or, as he calls them, a “tie.”

No, Tom Herr is not just another fly tyer.

The post Inspiration in Feathers & Steel appeared first on Fly Tyer.

The post Blood Knot appeared first on Fly Tyer.

My first experience using a hot spot was on the tried-and-true Pheasant-Tail Nymph. I substituted a hot pink polypropylene wing case for the traditional pheasant-fiber counterpart. Examining it closely, the fly didn’t match any specific insect, but I dutifully placed it in the corner of my box next to the other experimental patterns that often don’t get a fair try on the water. Something, however, drew me to this fly; maybe it was the same force that works on the trout. I tried it and the fish loved it. My frenzy for hot spots had begun!

Hot Spot Wing-Case Pheasant Tail

HOOK: Scud hook, size 14.
BEAD: Gold tungsten.
THREAD: Brown olive, size 12/0 or the finest thread you have.
TAIL: Pheasant tail fibers.
ABDOMEN: Pheasant tail fibers.
RIB: Gold wire.
WING CASE: Hot pink polypropylene yarn.
THORAX: Peacock herl.
LEGS: Pheasant tail fibers.

Watch how to tie a Hot Spot Pheasant Tail Nymph with Barry Ord Clarke here.

Adding hot spots to flies might seem new to you, but they have been used  for years, sometimes to imitate the various parts of real insects. For example, Pat Dorsey’s Mercury Cased Caddis Tungsten appears to have a chartreuse hot spot, but this part of the fly really imitates the head of a caddis larva peeking out of its case. And scud imitations sometimes have a little orange in their bodies, making them represent either pregnant or dead crustaceans. Including a fluorescent color on a pattern designed to closely imitate some form of trout food almost goes against logic.

Why would a wary trout ingest such a fly? Perhaps an opportunistic fish is simply seeing if the fly is something good to eat. Or perhaps a hot spot is a triggering mechanism and encourages a trout to strike. Or, as I mentioned earlier, the hot spot may help imitate an insect at a specific stage of development. Put all these reasons together, and it is easy to see why patterns with hot spots trick trout.

Hot Spot Bead Pheasant-Tail

HOOK: Hanak H 400 BL, size 14.
BEAD: Fluorescent orange slotted tungsten.
THREAD: Brown olive, size 12/0 or the finest thread you have.
TAIL: Medium pardo coq de Leon fibers.
ABDOMEN: Pheasant tail fibers.
RIB: Copper wire.
THORAX: Jan Siman Peacock Dubbing (peacock bronze).

A Starting Point for Tying Hot Spots

When tying flies with hot spots, start with patterns you use the most. Hot spots can be beads, body materials, and more. Returning to the Pheasant-Tail Nymph, let’s discuss some ways we can modify this traditional pattern and then discuss other ways to in- corporate hot spots into nymphs.

Have you ever tied a Pheasant-Tail Nymph on a jig hook with a slotted tungsten bead? This type of pattern is often used with Euro nymph-fishing techniques, and it is very effective. This fly rides with the hook point facing up so it snags fewer rocks and debris. Using a fluorescent colored bead is a great way to add a hot spot. If you wish to use a conventional color of bead, there are other ways to add a hot spot to a Pheasant-Tail Nymph.

Mercury Cased Caddis Tungsten

HOOK: Allen Fly Fishing N202, size 14.
BEADS: Silver glass and black tungsten.
THREAD: Fluorescent green, size 12/0 or the finest thread you have.
ABDOMEN: Dark hare’s-ear dubbing.
THORAX: Semperfli Sparkle Dubbing (green olive).

Watch how to tie the Mercury Cased Caddis here.

For example, after tying the tail of the fly, make half-a-dozen wraps using your choice of fluorescent thread. Coating the exposed thread with UV resin protects it from tearing or unraveling. Tying a regular Pheasant-Tail Nymph and then making a few wraps of bright thread behind the bead is a second and more popular method for adding a hot spot. I rarely modify the body material on a Pheasant-Tail Nymph, but a rib of brightly colored wire is anoth-er easy way to add a hot spot.

How many hot spots should a pattern have? Like all things in fly fishing, there is no right answer. Make subtle changes to your favorite patterns. Add one or two hot spots at first and see how the fish respond. Keep experimenting until you find the right combination that works on your waters.

Stealth Mode

HOOK: Hanak H 450 BL, size 14.
BEAD: Silver slotted tungsten.
THREAD: Fluorescent pink, size 12/0 or the finest thread you have.
TAIL: Medium pardo coq de Leon.
BUTT: Thread coated with UV resin.
ABDOMEN: Uni-Mylar (holographic black).
RIB: Bright silver wire.
THORAX: Jan Siman Peacock Dubbing (peacock black).

Watch how to tie the Stealth Mode fly here.

More Materials for Making Hot Spots

Many materials make great hot spots. Glo-Brite thread is a favorite of mine. This fluorescent material comes in an array of bright colors and will fit a tying bobbin. Use Glo-Brite thread for making tags, butts, ribs, and bodies on your flies. I place Glo-Brite in a second bobbin and save it for adding hot spots.

Fluorescent colored dubbing is also great for making hot spots. This mate-rial is perfect for wrapping small collars on many patterns. The popular Frenchie creates the appearance of a natural insect, but a bright collar really grabs the attention of the fish. In addition to fluorescent colors, experiment with shades of orange, red, and insect green. Many dubbings incorporate flash material, and I often select these for making hot spots. Sybai Ice, Hends Micro-Flash, Semperfli Ice, and Hareline Ice Dub are all excellent choices. Just a small quantity of flash adds to the effectiveness of some patterns.

Perdigon

HOOK: Hanak H 450 BL, size 14.
BEAD: Silver slotted tungsten.
THREAD: Fluorescent red, size 12/0 or the finest thread you have.
TAIL: Medium pardo coq de Leon
ABDOMEN: Blue holographic tinsel.
THORAX: Tying thread coated with clear UV resin.
WING CASE: Black UV resin.

Watch how to tie the Perdigon here.

Contrasting Colors As an Option

At first I simply added fluorescent hot spots to determine how the fish would react to these new flies, but other tiers and time on the water have changed my thinking about hot spots. Fly Fishing Team USA member Josh Miller taught me to be more intentional when designing my patterns. In many of his flies, Josh looks for ways to create contrast with hot spots, pairing colors that complement one another. I doubt Josh sits at his tying bench with a color wheel to determine the opposite, complementary colors for his patterns, but I wouldn’t hold it against him if he did!

Hot Butt Pheasant Tail

HOOK: Hanak H 450 BL, size 14.
BEAD: Copper slotted tungsten.
THREAD: Fluorescent pink, size 12/0 or the finest thread you have.
TAIL: Medium pardo coq de Leon.
BUTT: Thread coated with UV resin.
ABDOMEN: Pheasant tail fibers
RIB: Copper wire.
THORAX: Ice Dub (copper).

The bodies of the nymphs we imitate tend to be shades of black, brown, and olive. When tying a black nymph, a complementary hot spot would be pink, chartreuse, or yellow. The complementary hot spot for a brown nymph is blue, turquoise, or orange. And the hot spot for a fly with an olive body would be purple, white, tan, or red.

You don’t have to be a color expert to have success designing fish-catching patterns. Breaking the “contrast rules” is not only allowed but encouraged! Shades of brown and orange are related, yet pairing dark brown with fluorescent orange creates excellent contrast. Experimenting with different materials and color combinations, and taking the time to fish your new flies, is the key.

When to Fish Flies With Hot Spots

Some theories of fly selection relate to matching hot spots to water conditions. For example, since less light penetrates deeper water, fluorescent colors may appear more visible to the trout. For fishing deeper water, I like hot pink, yellow, and orange hot spots. However, when that same water becomes stained from rain, a dark color creates a better silhouette; under this condition, a favorite color combination is black and purple, especially when selecting streamers.

Walt’s Worm Blowtorch

HOOK: Hanak H 450 BL, size 14.
BEAD: Copper slotted tungsten.
THREAD: Fluorescent pink, size 12/0 or the finest thread you have.
TAIL: Glo-Brite (fluorescent fuchsia).
BODY: Hare’s-ear dubbing.
RIB: Sulky Sliver Metallic (pearl). (You may substitute with extra-fine pearl tinsel.)

Watch how to tie Walt’s Worm Blowtorch here.

My personal fly selection varies based on water conditions and time of year. I gravitate toward patterns with fewer and smaller hot spots in late winter and early spring, and increase the size and number of hot spots during the spring and early summer. As the hatches and feeding frenzy of May and June subside, I return to using patterns with fewer hot spots throughout summer, then gradually increase their usage during the fall. This is a general guideline, yet an increase in water flow and decrease in clarity might prompt me to use a fly with multiple hot spots regardless of the time of year.

New materials are always arriving on the fly-tying scene, and I often purchase them in the typical nymph colors: shades of brown, black, and olive. Many fluorescent colors seem over the top, but I encourage you to try them. One of my favorite shades of dubbing is the ugliest fluorescent teal you’ve ever seen, but the fish respond well to it.

Glo Bright Pheasant Tail

HOOK: Hanak H 450 BL, size 14.
BEAD: Copper slotted tungsten.
THREAD: Brown olive, size 12/0 or the finest thread you have.
TAIL: Glo-Brite (fluorescent flame).
ABDOMEN: Pheasant tail fibers.
RIB: Copper wire.
THORAX: Peacock herl.

As UV resins gained in popularity, it was only natural for companies to begin testing fluorescent colors. Solarez recently released Color Resin. Based on my experience with this product, multiple coats create a vibrant appearance. Trust me, when your buddies look in your fly box, they will be immediately drawn to the flies you’ve designed with this new product.

Holographic and Perdigon tinsels have also found a place on my tying bench. These materials give a fly a little sparkle. Some of these tinsels, such as Semperfli Perdigon Body, are translucent so the color of the finished pattern shifts depending upon the color of the thread underbody. A little bit of experimenting at the vise will pay dividends on the water.

Hi-Vis Rib Pheasant Tail

HOOK: Hanak H 450 BL, size 14.
BEAD: Matte black slotted tungsten.
THREAD: Brown olive, size 12/0 or the finest thread you have.
TAIL: Medium pardo coq de Leon fi bers.
BODY: Pheasant tail fibers.
RIB: Pink wire.
THORAX: Ice Dub (copper).
NOTE: Counter-wrapping the rib strengthens the fragile pheasant-fiber body.

While we’ve concentrated on tying nymphs, you can also add hot spots to most of your favorite streamers and wet flies. In many cases you already own the materials you will use. Sure, you can copy proven patterns, but let your creativity guide you at the vise. If you’re drawn to a fly, you’ll be more likely to fish it with confidence. That worked for me with the Hot Spot Pheasant-Tail Nymph, and I haven’t turned back!

The post Hot Spots for Better Nymphs appeared first on Fly Tyer.

The Fly Tyer of the Year should do more than tie nice flies. This outstanding crafts-person should also be a good ambassador for fly tying. They should have a solid record of sharing what they know with fellow tyers and encouraging new participants to take up the vise and try their hands at tying flies. They might also have a record of publications, videos, and more.

This is the first year we have given the Fly Tyer of the Year Award. During the selection process, we received messages from several hundred of you nominating your favorite tyers. In the end, you took the decision out of our hands. An over-whelming number of you chose Barry Ord Clarke as our Fly Tyer of the Year!

Barry is English, but he moved with his wife to her native Norway 27 years ago. Barry says he lives 30 minutes from the sea, 30 minutes from the mountains, and 45 minutes from the fifth most productive Atlantic salmon river in Norway. He enjoys fishing for freshwater trout, sea trout, as well as salmon, and he also finds time to hunt.

Barry has been tying flies for close to 40 years. In addition to being a regular contributor to this magazine for 10 years, he has written for almost 20 other fly fish- ing magazines around the world, includ- ing Italy, Germany, Holland, England, Finland, and Australia. Barry has published a dozen wonderful fly-tying books, including The Feather Bender’s Flytying Techniques and Flytying for Beginners.

He says his next book will be a magnum opus dedicated to deer hair. In addition to describing everything we need to know about every type of deer hair we might find in our local fly shops, this book will include step-by-step instructions for creating 50 useful patterns, and Barry will post videos showing how to tie each fly.

Oh, did I tell you Barry makes fly- tying videos?

Many of the nominations we received from you mention his terrific videos. Barry’s YouTube channel contains about 500 instructional videos and has almost 40,000 eager subscribers!

Barry is also one of the most sought-after speakers and teachers for fly-fishing shows and clubs. He regularly appears at events across Europe, and he is planning to visit the United States very soon.

If you’re a regular reader of this magazine, you already know the high quality of Barry’s work. His writing and instructional photographs are first rate, and his flies are amazing!

So, let’s return to the beginning. First, the Fly Tyer of the Year must make exceptional flies. But, to receive this prestigious award, this talented tyer must do more than that. Barry Ord Clarke: fly tyer, magazine and book author, photographer, videographer, speaker and instructor, and, now, Fly Tyer of the Year!

The post Fly Tyer of the Year 2021 Winner appeared first on Fly Tyer.

[by Ryan Sparks]

Like many who dream about being on the water rather than at work, I sometimes visit the internet to scratch the itch. Videos of exotic expeditions, expert tips for every angling problem, and the latest fly patterns are all at our fingertips. Yet, in an age of content for content’s sake, you quickly realize this stuff is sometimes repetitive.

Fly tying especially falls into this trap. The truth is that fly tying often becomes variations on the same thing: a basic principle with a new twist, a material substitution, or a slight variation in technique. There are, after all, only so many ways to attach materials to a hook—or so we think.

Recently, while looking through the usual fly tying blogs, I came across a photograph of an immense rat fly unlike anything I’d ever seen. I took the bait, clicked the link, and found videos showing both how the fly looked and swam.

A guy named Steve Yewchuck created this crazy pattern. I kept digging and found more of his monstrous creations: bats with articulated wings, sputtering foam ducklings, squids with undulating fins, lizards that kick and wobble, lifelike cicadas with perfect profiles, and forearm-length muskrats that swim like the real thing.

These flies aren’t your standard fly shop fare, and they’re certainly not for the faint of heart. Using his gonzo style of tying, Steve Yewchuck creates patterns that push the boundaries of modern fly design.

Design, Tie, Test, Repeat

Yewchuck has the mind of an engineer and the soul of an artist. Looking at his past, it’s easy to see where they come from. He grew up in Narrowsburg, New York, and as a kid, he fished for smallmouth bass and walleyes. The trout in the Delaware River, however, spurred his love for fly fishing and tying. He went to college for art and photography, but after graduation took a job as a high-end machinist. He now rebuilds airplanes for Reese Aircraft, a career that allows him to pursue fishing, guiding, and filling fly orders for his company, Envision Fly Works.

Yewchuck applies the same intense precision required in airplane restoration to his tying. When I first encountered his work, I noticed a reoccurring checkerboard background in every photo. When I asked him about it, he said he uses the mat to constantly check the sizes and profiles of his flies. This attention to detail leads to repeatability. Each of Yewchuck’s flies is identical to the next, a mark of a true craftsman. This precision ensures every fly casts and swims the same. This assembly-line production method is the outcome of arduous design and testing.

“My thought process is focused on function. I sketch flies before I tie them, and plan them out one hundred percent before I sit down at the vise. At the beginning, I mainly focus on how a fly moves; I think movement is a huge trigger point. I like a pattern to be realistic, but it has to be functional, and a big part of that is movement. I usually see how a fly will take shape in my mind, but it doesn’t always work. I once spent two months working on a sculpin pattern and eventually had to put it on hold. I’ll come back to it someday, but I can get most flies to where I want them fairly quickly. It’s hard to come up with new ideas in fly tying, but when you do, it’s really rewarding.”

Part of Yewchuck’s ability to innovate lies in his vast knowledge of materials that extends beyond fly tying catalogs and fly shop shelves.

“In both airplane restoration and fly tying, knowing your materials is critical. There are always new materials coming out in both fields, so it’s important to stay on top of it. I have a vast knowledge of different materials. For example, the resins and glues I use in restoration cross over into my tying. I find materials in my everyday life and think how I can incorporate them into my flies.”

Once Yewchuck has worked through a pattern on paper and in the vise, it’s time for testing.

“I send my flies out to about a dozen anglers around the country who I know well. These guys are great anglers, and I get detailed notes on what they liked, what they didn’t, and stuff to improve. Not only are my flies tested by anglers who know their stuff, but that testing happens on different water types and in different environments. I think it makes my flies relevant throughout the country instead of specific to one body of water.”

A Mind for Mice

Steve Yewchuck’s Ring Leader Rat is what initially got my attention, but I soon discovered it was only one fly in a series of rodent-inspired creations.

“There isn’t a single mouse pattern that does everything. Sometimes you want a mouse that sits high in the water and pulls itself up quickly for skating. Other times you want a mouse that dives and sticks to the surface film so it doesn’t fly off when a fish slashes at it. I’ve got a rodent box that contains probably sixty different patterns I’m playing with. I weed out the bad ones and experiment with different materials and body shapes. In the process, I’ve come up with a handful of patterns that I use consistently.”

The post The Monstrous Creations of Steve Yewchuck appeared first on Fly Tyer.

Those swarming, dancing insects are mating mayflies called spinners! This new pattern matches almost all medium to large spinners.

[by Barry Clarke]

IDENTIFYING A MAYFLY SPINNER FALL CAN BE ONE OF THE MOST CHALLENGING SITUATIONS AN ANGLER CAN EXPERIENCE. It’s all about breaking the code and reading the signs. It is somewhat easier to recognize the spinner fall of larger mayflies, such as green drakes. These insects are so big we can see them at a greater distance floating in a lifeless, crucifix-like posture on the surface of the water. Sometimes there are so many spent green drake spinners they cover the entire surface of the river. Smaller, darker, and sometimes transparent species of mayfly spinners, however, are often more difficult to see, even at close quarters.

Mayflies are known for their short lives, with some species having less than an hour to find a mate and deposit their eggs before dying. After the initial hatch, the first sign of the spinner fall will be high above you in the air. Look for the swarming, dancing, mating mayflies above the treetops.

THE SPINNERS FALL DOWN—THE TROUT RISE UP

After mating, the swarming will become sparser. The male mayflies are drained of energy and fight to stay airborne, but they gradually float down closer to the water, where they will die and lie with wings and tails outstretched on the surface. The females, which hatch later than the males, have a little more energy and often fly upstream to lay their eggs. The current then carries this cargo downstream to be deposited in the same stretch of riverbed where the insects began their lives as nymphs. Finally, the exhausted females fall to the surface of the water and die. The spinner fall is completed.

After examining the surface and seeing no spent spinners, look for steadily rising fish. Smaller fish can become quite wild at the beginning of a spinner fall, making splashy rises and even leaping into the air to grab the spinners as they fall. As day turns into night, the spent spinners will begin to drown and become trapped and slightly sink into the surface film. Now the larger fish will begin feeding on the dying insects. The rise will not be big and splashy, but more of a lazy sip or slow head-andtail riseform. Larger, experienced trout seem to know that there is no escape for these dead and drowning mayflies.

TYING AN ADAPTABLE SPENT SPINNER As with most fly patterns, there are many ways—both simple and more advanced—for tying an imitation of a spent spinner. This pattern represents no specific species, but with just tiny alterations in size and color, you can create a good representation for matching most medium to large mayflies. The most time-consuming part of making this pattern is coating the body with light-activated resin.

The Wally Wing technique I use takes a little time to master, but once you have tried it a few times, it will become smooth sailing! You can use most types of medium-sized waterfowl flank and breast feathers for the wings, but make sure they are of good quality. I normally tie Wally Wings a little larger than needed and then trim them to the correct size when the fly is finished.

Clarke’s Spent Spinner

Barry Clarke, who hails from Norway, creates flies that catch fish around the globe. If you’d like to see more of his terrific patterns, check out his website, www.thefeatherbender.com.

The post A Better Spent Spinner appeared first on Fly Tyer.

[by Jay “Fishy” Fullum]

Tying a strand or two of an artificial anemone onto the back of a hook results in a very fishable fly. It wiggles when retrieved, triggering strikes from a variety of fish, especially bass. Tying the rubbery end to the hook, however, is tricky. The material is very strong, but it is extremely soft; it wants to go everywhere except under the thread wraps, making it difficult to position and secure in place.

After closer examination, I discovered that the legs of an artificial anemone are arranged in rows. I cut along the rows and ended up with a set of attached legs. I separated two legs from the row, and tied them to the rear of a hook. The joined legs were much easier to tie on the shank.

One of the rows contained eight legs. I cut the row in half, and as I glanced at the two sets of legs, I thought of an arachnid. If I designed a spider using these legs, it would be the largest terrestrial I ever cast, but the action in the water would be incredible.

I tried my new fly the next day, and I was right: the action was fantastic. This spider might look like a prop from a science fiction movie, but it is easy to tie, floats well, is very durable, and the bass hammer it.

Tie the Alien Arachnid and give it a try. You won’t be disappointed.

1. Cut a row of legs from the artificial anemone.
2. Cut the row into two sets of four legs.
3. Shape the foam body. Cut the body in half from the narrow end; make the cut about half the length of the body.
4. Start the thread on the hook. Wrap a layer of thread on the shank and slightly down the bend.
5. Apply super glue gel on the insides of the cut foam. Position the body onto the hook and make several thread wraps.
6. Tie on the Eyelash Yarn and bead-chain eyes.
7. Tie a set of legs to one side of the hook just behind the eyes. Hold the strip of legs along the side of the shank. Wrap the thread down the shank between the legs. Tie the end of the second strip to the other side of the shank, and wrap the thread back up the hook. Add a second set of legs to the other side of the shank, and wrap the thread up and down the hook. Coat the thread wraps with a drop of superglue. Wrap the yarn forward between the legs. Tie off and clip the excess yarn.
8. Here is our completed fly. I didn’t color this pattern; I left that detail to you!

Jay “Fishy” Fullum creates some of the best fish-catching flies using the wackiest ingredients. To learn more about his flies, classes, and much more, go to his website, www.fishyfullum.com. Fishy lives in New York State.

The post Alien Arachnid appeared first on Fly Tyer.

[by Jay “Fishy” Fullum]

Since I was a kid, I’ve created a variety of poppers and panfish flies from old cork stoppers. Recently, after opening a fine bottle of cabernet sauvignon, I picked up the foil that had been around the top and turned to drop it into the trash. After giving the foil one last look, I flattened it out on the countertop. A day later, I was at the vise enjoying the challenge of tying a fly using another unique material.

The foil has a layer of very thin plastic between the outer layers, and it is very light and strong. Other colors are sometimes available, but cab red, gold, and black are the most common. Other bottled products also use foil tops; check your kitchen cupboard for ideas. Some bottles are covered with thin plastic, so I tried it, too. The plastic is also very strong and works well for tying a fly.

I’ve tied the Cab Nymph using a variety of colored foils and plastic tops, and liked all the different patterns. Although the foil body is very light, it breaks the water tension and causes the fly to drop quickly below the surface. If you prefer a faster sink rate, replace the fur underbody with fine nontoxic wire.

This foil is a very user-friendly material and can be used for making a variety of fishable patterns. I enjoyed experimenting with this unique ingredient, and I suggest that you give it a try, too.

Jay “Fishy” Fullum has shared his unusual materials and tying techniques in this magazine for more than 20 years. Fishy is a favorite lecturer and instructor, and regularly appears at fly fishing shows and clubs across the United States. For more information or to contact him, go to www.fishyfullum.com.

The post The Cab Nymph appeared first on Fly Tyer.

[by Jay “Fishy” Fullum]

AS AN ARTIST, I RECOGNIZE THE IMPORTANCE of contrast when applying different colors to paper or canvas. I also know the importance of choosing the right colors when tying a fly that will stand out in stained water or during low-light conditions. This might require making slight changes in the colors recommended in the pattern recipe; a solid-colored fly tied using only light, medium, or dark materials will be difficult for the fish to locate when the habitat matches the hues used in the pattern.

Tying the Layered-Hair Fly using bundles of different-colored bucktail will enable you to create a pattern of contrasting colors. Combine bundles of yellow, black, bright orange, green, and more, layering them so the fly will be seen as water clarity or light conditions change.

The tying technique is user-friendly and results in very durable flies. Tie streamers with only two bundles of bucktail, or use as many as four or five bundles to produce some great-looking layered creations. I am convinced that the layers of color add to the productivity of these flies.

Tie up a supply of bundles and have fun lashing them on top of each other to create the Layered-Hair Fly.

Jay “Fishy” Fullum has written for this magazine for two decades. To learn more about his flies and fine art, go to www.fishyfullum.com. Fishy lives in New York State.

1 Start the thread on the hook. Tie a bundle of bucktail along the length of the shank, tie off the thread, and snip. We’ll add separate bundles of bucktail to the fly in the following steps.

2 Place a large yarn needle in your vise. Start the thread on the needle. Tie a bundle of bucktail on the needle. Tie off the thread and snip. Apply a thin coat of superglue to the thread wraps, and pull the bundle off the needle. Repeat these steps until you have the desired number of bundles for the fly.

3 Restart the thread at the end of the hook shank. Tie the first bunch of bucktail to the rear of the hook; make sure it is centered on top of the shank. Apply a drop of superglue to the thread wraps.

4 Tie another bundle of bucktail to the top of the fly; place this bundle directly on top of the first bunch. Tie off and clip the thread. Add a drop of superglue to the thread wraps.

5 Start the thread behind the hook eye. Tie down the middle layer of bucktail at the front of the hook.

6 Carefully position the last layer of bucktail on top of the fly to form the back. Tie down the bundle behind the hook eye. Shape the head of the fly using additional thread wraps. Whip-finish and clip the thread.

7 Apply a thin coat of superglue to both sides of the layered body. Attach the doll eyes with superglue gel. If you wish, apply a couple of brushstrokes of nail polish in front of the head.

The post The Layered-Hair Fly appeared first on Fly Tyer.

[by Jay “Fishy” Fullum]

I SOMETIMES USE STRIPS OF FOAM shelf-liner material for tying trout and panfish patterns. Recently, I cut a couple of strips from a roll of this material and attempted to get creative with the stuff. While pulling a short length from the roll, it snapped and I couldn’t believe what I saw: the end of the broken piece looked exactly like the head of an ant with antennae.

It took awhile to work out where to place the thread wraps, but the results were worth the effort. This new Red Ant is a very realistic terrestrial, and it easy to tie.

I occasionally receive emails from tiers requesting information about the odd materials used in this column. For the Red Ant, I use a brand of shelf liner called Easyliner; you’ll find it at Walmart and similar stores. The more open-webbed types of liner will not work. A roll of the Easyliner costs only $4, and according to my math, it will make 7,200 ants! If you can’t find Easyliner, send me a self-addressed stamped envelope, and I’ll return it with a sample that is large enough to tie a couple of dozen ants. You’ll find my address on my website. And if you are able to find a roll of the red Easyliner, share some with your fly-tying friends.

Jay “Fishy” Fullum has been a contributing writer for this magazine for almost 20 years. Fishy lives in New York State. To learn more about his unique patterns, or take him up on his offer for acquiring a piece of the material he uses in this column, go to his website, www.fishyfullum.com.

1 Cut a strip from along the width edge of the roll of Easyliner; a strip cut lengthwise will not pull apart.

2 Grasp one segment of the strip between your fingers. Pull the strip apart. Separating the strip forms the head and antennae.

3 Cut the 2-millimeter-thick black foam to shape.

4 Wrap the hook shank with thread. Tie the black foam to the end of the hook.

5 Tie the strip of red foam (five segments in length) to the rear of the hook. The last segment is excess; remove it from the fly.

6 Lift the red foam, and wrap the thread part of the way up the hook. Make three or four wraps to form the back section of the ant body.

7 Raise the red foam, wrap forward, and make the next section of the body.

8 Pull the black foam forward over the back of the fly. Tie down the black foam.

9 Lift both pieces of foam and wrap the thread forward. Make several wraps behind the head of the ant and remove the excess foam.

10 Make several thread wraps just behind the hook eye to lift the head. Tie off and snip the thread.

11 Tie a loop into a length of the embroidery floss. Thread one end of the floss through the loop a second time, similar to tying a surgeon’s knot. Position the loop between two of the body segments. Pull the ends of the floss to tighten the knot and form one pair of legs.

12 Tie on additional legs. Apply superglue along the bottom of the fly and trim the legs to length. Dot on the eyes using black paint.

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